Pasta Database
Nests of fresh egg tagliatelle beside a bundle of dried spaghetti on a floured wooden board.

Fresh versus dried pasta: neither is better, they are different foods

The difference between fresh and dried pasta: dough, texture, cook time, storage, and which shapes and sauces belong to each.

Fresh pasta is not a better version of dried pasta. It is a different food. Dried pasta is a semolina dough extruded and dried hard, and it keeps for years. Fresh pasta is usually an egg dough, rolled and cut, and it keeps for a day or two. Each one belongs to its own shapes and its own sauces.

Dried pasta is firm. It cooks in eight to fourteen minutes and comes out with a bite that stands up to a thick ragu, a bake, and a salad. Spaghetti, penne, rigatoni, and every extruded shape is dried. A good dried pasta from a bronze die is a serious product, not a fallback.

Fresh pasta is tender. It cooks in two to four minutes and it comes out soft, rich with egg, and yellow. Tagliatelle, pappardelle, the stuffed shapes, and the sheets of a Bolognese lasagne are fresh. It wants butter, cream, a light ragu, or a sauce that lets the dough show.

Some fresh pasta has no egg. The hand-formed shapes of the south, orecchiette, cavatelli, trofie, and pici, are semolina and water made fresh on a board and eaten the same day. They have the firmness of dried pasta with the tenderness of fresh.

Supermarket fresh pasta in a chilled pack is a third thing. It is pasteurised and often thick, and it cooks softer than either homemade fresh or good dried. It is convenient. It is not the pasta the north makes at home.

The rule for the cook: match the sauce to the dough. A Bolognese ragu on fresh tagliatelle. A tomato sauce on dried spaghetti. Butter and sage on fresh ravioli. A baked dish with dried rigatoni. Swap them and the plate is still edible, but it is not the dish.

Sources

Shapes marked usually fresh

Agnolotti, uncooked, on linen

Agnolotti

Stuffed · Piedmont

small pillow of roast meat filling, folded from one sheet and cut

Anolini, uncooked, on linen

Anolini

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

small round parcel stamped from two sheets, filled with braised beef

Bigoli, uncooked, on linen

Bigoli

Long strands · Veneto

thick rough round strand, pressed through a bigolaro

Cappellacci, uncooked, on linen

Cappellacci

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

large folded parcel filled with pumpkin, shaped like a peasant's hat

Cappelletti, uncooked, on linen

Cappelletti

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

circle or square folded and pinched into a little hat

Capunti, uncooked, on linen

Capunti

Hand-formed · Puglia

long cavatelli dragged with three fingers, like an open pea pod

Caramelle, uncooked, on linen

Caramelle

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

rectangle rolled around a filling and twisted at both ends like a sweet wrapper

Casoncelli, uncooked, on linen

Casoncelli

Stuffed · Lombardy

half-moon or folded parcel with a bread, meat, and amaretto filling

Cjarsons, uncooked, on linen

Cjarsons

Stuffed · Friuli-Venezia Giulia

half-moon of potato dough with a sweet and savoury filling

Corzetti, uncooked, on linen

Corzetti

Hand-formed · Liguria

coin-shaped disc stamped with a pattern on both faces

Culurgiones, uncooked, on linen

Culurgiones

Stuffed · Sardinia

potato and pecorino filling sealed with a pleated braid like an ear of wheat

Fazzoletti, uncooked, on linen

Fazzoletti

Sheets · Liguria

thin square of egg sheet, folded loosely on the plate like a handkerchief

Fettuccine, uncooked, on linen

Fettuccine

Ribbons · Lazio

flat ribbon, 6 to 8 mm wide

Fileja, uncooked, on linen

Fileja

Hand-formed · Calabria

strip wound around a thin rod into a short irregular spiral

Garganelli, uncooked, on linen

Garganelli

Tubes · Emilia-Romagna

egg-pasta square rolled on a comb into a ridged quill

Gnocchi, uncooked, on linen

Gnocchi

Hand-formed · All of Italy

small soft dumpling of potato and flour, often ridged on a fork

Maccheroni al ferretto, uncooked, on linen

Maccheroni al ferretto

Hand-formed · Calabria

strip of dough rolled around a thin iron rod into a long hollow tube

Maltagliati, uncooked, on linen

Maltagliati

Ribbons · Emilia-Romagna

irregular scraps of egg sheet, cut at random

Marubini, uncooked, on linen

Marubini

Stuffed · Lombardy

round or square parcel of braised meat, served in three broths

Mezzelune, uncooked, on linen

Mezzelune

Stuffed · Trentino-Alto Adige

circle folded in half over a filling into a half-moon

Pansotti, uncooked, on linen

Pansotti

Stuffed · Liguria

plump triangular parcel filled with wild greens and cheese

Pappardelle, uncooked, on linen

Pappardelle

Ribbons · Tuscany

very wide flat ribbon, 2 to 3 cm, sometimes with a fluted edge

Pici, uncooked, on linen

Pici

Long strands · Tuscany

fat irregular hand-rolled strand

Pizzarelle, uncooked, on linen

Pizzarelle

Hand-formed · Lazio

short hand-rolled strips, thick and irregular

Pizzoccheri, uncooked, on linen

Pizzoccheri

Ribbons · Lombardy

short thick grey-brown buckwheat ribbon

Ravioli, uncooked, on linen

Ravioli

Stuffed · All of Italy

filling sealed between two squares of egg sheet, edges crimped

Sagne 'ncannulate, uncooked, on linen

Sagne 'ncannulate

Hand-formed · Puglia

wide strip twisted along its length into a loose corkscrew

Scialatielli, uncooked, on linen

Scialatielli

Ribbons · Campania

short thick irregular ribbon

Strascinati, uncooked, on linen

Strascinati

Hand-formed · Basilicata

disc of dough dragged across the board with the fingers, larger and flatter than orecchiette

Stringozzi, uncooked, on linen

Stringozzi

Ribbons · Umbria

thick square-cut water-and-flour strip

Strozzapreti, uncooked, on linen

Strozzapreti

Short shapes · Emilia-Romagna

strip of dough rolled between the palms into a loose twist

Tagliatelle, uncooked, on linen

Tagliatelle

Ribbons · Emilia-Romagna

flat egg ribbon, 8 mm wide by tradition

Tagliolini, uncooked, on linen

Tagliolini

Ribbons · Piedmont

very narrow egg ribbon, 2 to 3 mm wide

Tajarin, uncooked, on linen

Tajarin

Ribbons · Piedmont

hair-thin golden egg ribbon

Testaroli, uncooked, on linen

Testaroli

Sheets · Tuscany

spongy pancake cooked on a griddle, cut into diamonds, then boiled

Tonnarelli, uncooked, on linen

Tonnarelli

Long strands · Lazio

square-section fresh egg strand

Tortelli, uncooked, on linen

Tortelli

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

filled parcel, square, rectangular, or rolled, by region

Tortellini, uncooked, on linen

Tortellini

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

small square folded over a filling and wrapped around the finger into a ring

Tortelloni, uncooked, on linen

Tortelloni

Stuffed · Emilia-Romagna

large tortellini, folded the same way around a ricotta filling

Troccoli, uncooked, on linen

Troccoli

Long strands · Puglia

thick square strand cut with a grooved rolling pin

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